Walking alone at night, one contemplates memories, confronts mysterious figures, and ponders one’s fate, drawing inspiration from the tragic tale of Orpheus and Eurydice. In this rendition, Eurydice willingly selects the inferno. The Wiederhoeft FW23 collection delves into a realm post-Orpheus, blurring gender lines and intertwining Greek and Catholic myths reminiscent of Virgil’s Aeneid. The overarching themes contrast afterparty with afterlife, destiny versus autonomy, and the inevitable outcomes of our choices.
The runway show opened with an airy white A-line dress crafted from a painter’s tarp, hinting at a bridal undertone. This was joined by sumptuous creations like a strapless dress adorned with metallic sequin embroidery and a maxi coat designed with a stained-glass pattern. Casual ensembles introduced satin pants, hoodies, and denim-based wide-leg pants and corsets.
A blue sequined midi dress bearing lace appliqué designs stood out, alongside midi-length dresses in diverse materials, from silk to velvet.
These appeared simple until the intricate lace-up detail became apparent. The collection also highlighted two sheer slip dresses embroidered with Orphean and Catholic visuals, encapsulating the central narrative.
Jackson Wiederhoeft, an alumnus of Parsons School of Design, previously clinched the title of “Women’s Designer of the Year” in 2016. After graduation, they lent their expertise to Thom Browne for three years, mainly concentrating on women’s couture collections, further refining their artistry and mastering intricate garment craftsmanship.
