The FW23 Eckhaus Latta show at Performance Space New York marked a dramatic shift in mood and tone. As the room went total black, white spotlights lit up the runway, set up like a labyrinth, and models began showcasing the new collection, starting with dark wool overcoats and stomping boots. This darker, more urgent presentation was in stark contrast to the brand’s previous, more joyous season, and it was intentional.
At the studio in Brooklyn, the designers had reflected on the loss of their main collection last season and used it as a catalyst for reinvention. The fall collection showcased their emotional response, with inside-out seams, coarser fabrics, and unfinished shearling tops symbolizing a certain hardness and defiance. The theme extended to protection and control, and as the show went on, the color palette evolved from darkness to include shades of moss green, brown, blue, orange, and even a stunning pink oversize bomber jacket.
There were innovative touches like zip-removable skirts and snap-off pants, and garments designed to be mutable. The journey towards light was evident in natural linen pieces, and some of the standout looks included gray vinyl dresses and jeans with a marble-like effect, and caramel-hued tech organza garments with gathered seams and drawstring details.
This collection was a manifestation of reinvention and raw emotion, encapsulating a mood of edginess and curiosity, and successfully transforming adversity into creativity.
