Front Row

Proenza Schouler FW23: On Cool Women

Chloe Sevigny made an appearance on the Proenza Schouler FW23 runway, a brand she has been associated with since its inception about 20 years ago. Although the designers claimed that it wasn’t an anniversary show, records show that their journey began with the fall 2003 season. They have been reflecting on the relationships they’ve built over two decades, considering this collection their most personal.

The designs demonstrated a shift in the tastes and lifestyles of the women they’ve been associated with. Prints were rare, appearing subtly in linings of dresses or as simple straps. The designs were simplified yet elegant. The only noticeable embellishment was white pom-pom fringes on a black velvet dress, mostly hidden by other layers.

The designers revisited and updated their signature elements. For example, a couple of narrowly cut velvet shirt dresses were reminiscent of their best-sellers from fall 2018, but with a more mature look. Some evening numbers with sequins displayed elaborations of simpler designs from previous collections. The intention was to innovate without discarding their existing style philosophy.

In this collection, there was an evident effort to elevate everyday clothing into art. Functional features were added to classic pieces, such as vertical zippers to blazers and unique cuts to glossy gold leather “jeans.” The overall theme was one of sophisticated simplicity, an ode to their long-standing brand essence, adapting yet honoring their past.

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